Aquarium and Fish
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|The tiger barb or Barbus
members of the family Cyprinidae
commonly referred to as Cyprinids. Their habitat extends through the
Malay Peninsula, Sumatra and Borneo. There are also scattered
populations in Cambodia.
Their name is
purely descriptive. Tiger barbs have an orange body
with vertical black striping. Tigers are just one of over 70 species of
barbs made commercially available by the aquarium industry. Selective
breeding has produced a wide variety of color variations. Color morphs
are green, gold and albino tiger barbs. The green tiger barb is highly
melanistic. Their body reflects green over the black due to a tyndall
The tiger barb
has an even temperament and makes for a good
community fish. They are mid-level
swimmers. Barbs do have a tendency
to be fin nippers though. This behavior increases in bigger groups.
Avoid mixing them with large finned species such as angelfish, bettas
and fancy guppies. They are a smaller fish. They only grow to about 2.5
inches long as adults. You’ll want to raise them with similar
species to avoid waking up to one less fish in your tank.
Barbs are a
shoaling fish. Shoaling fish are community dwellers.
They instinctively travel in groups. Shoaling fish are ill adapted to a
life of solitude. It is recommended that you have at least four of any
shoaling fish in an aquarium. Six to eight is even better.
in soft, slightly acid water with a temperature range between 68-77
omnivorous. They can live out their entire life fed
nothing but common tropical fish flakes. But a diet supplemented with
pure protein will help keep them fit, vigorous and colorful.
It is not
difficult to distinguish between male and female tiger
barbs. The males are typically more colorful. Males tend to have more
red on their fins than females. The male’s nose will turn red
enters into its breeding cycle.
Tiger barbs can be induced
to spawn when
provided with the right
conditions. Tigers typically breed in early summer in the wild. Turn
the aquarium thermostat up to 77 or 78 degrees. You want them in softer
water such as bottled water or reverse osmosis filtered water. You will
also want to increase the waters acidity level to approximately pH 6.5.
If these conditions are not conducive to your other community dwellers
simply use a breeding tank to create a controlled environment conducive
to spawning. You will also want to increase their protein intake by
feeding them brine shrimp, bloodworms or meat based frozen or freeze
are egg layers. A trait common to egg layers is that
they will eat their eggs if given the chance. This can be best avoided
by placing a layer of marbles over the breeding tank substrate. The
eggs will sink down in between the marbles and keep the eggs safely out
of harms way. Once spawning is concluded, the adults they
should be removed from
the breeding tank.
The fry will
hatch in about 36 hours. They will be free swimming in
2-3 days. Once they are free swimming they can be fed infusoria or
liquid fry food formulated for egg laying fish. Larger fry can be fed
newly hatched brine shrimp. In about two weeks you will be able to
change their diet to finely crushed fish flakes.
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